Sterling Nano 9.2mm Rope

The Specs: Technology in climbing rope manufacturing has taken leaps and bounds in the last 10 years. Where 11 mm diameter ropes were once (not too long ago) the standard, now rope manufacturers are able to make skinnier and skinnier ropes without much compromise in strength. Thin cords are definitely the new standard and Sterling Rope's Nano 9.2mm is the cream of the crop. They have created this rope as an ultra light red-point rope, that can still handle 6 UIAA falls. In Sterling's case, they actually round down to be extra safe for their fall ratings; In one of three tests the Nano actually held 8 UIAA falls. With an impact force of 8.4KN, the Nano guarantees a soft catch. And at a measly 53 grams per meter, a 70 meter Nano will likely weigh in lighter than your 60 meter 9.8mm.

The Rope: This cord is skinny. It will take a while to get used to handling it, both for the belayer and the climber. After you get used to clipping or belaying with this thing, you will be hooked. Right away you will notice how small the rope packs down, and the drastic difference in your pack weight. The sheath holds up to some serious abuse as well, with my 70 meter showing no signs of wear after over a year of moderate use. This rope actually gets a lower impact force rating than some of Sterling's larger ropes so you can expect an ultra soft catch if you happen to pitch from your project. I use one as a red-point rope, and recently I have been putting another one to the test as an indoor rope as well - I can't get enough. I've heard rumors that a 70 meter Nano is the best alpine single rope option, as well as rumors of doubling up 60m Nanos for an ultra burly half rope. It comes in three lengths and two mega-bright colors.

Overall: Don't be intimidated by the skinny cord. When first belaying with a skinny, I would suggest beginning by using a Petzl Freino belay biner if you'd like (for added friction when lowering), or simply use gloves. The Nano is as strong or quite possibly stronger than your 9.8mm, so don't let the thinness fool you. The Sterling Nano 9.2mm will pack smaller, weigh much less and handle better than you had ever thought possible, so don't be scared, go skinny.

J-Star (Jonathan Siegrist)
Route Setter
Boulder Rock Club
www.jstarinorbit.com

Trango Piranha Alpine Knife

There are just a few pieces of gear that I carry with me on every climb: shoes, harness, belay device and chalk bag. The route dictates what other gear may be necessary, but I consider these pieces essential. A permanent fixture on my harness is my rescue biner. It consists of 1 SMC rappel ring, 1 lenth of 5mm prusik cord (I keep a second on my leg loop), and a Trango Piranha Alpine Knife, all clipped together with a small Black Diamond Enduro screwgate carabiner. I wear this kit clipped to my haul loop and locked, so that it is always within reach, but well out of the way.

My Piranha knife has come in handy on numerous occasions. It slices through tattered webbing with ease, has the precision to delicately cut away tape gloves, has the teeth and spine to cut through layers of gear in a medical emergency, and even features a handy bottle opener for kicking back after a long route.

The Piranha's blade locks in the open position easily with just one hand. Unlike some knives, it's blade also locks closed when clipped to a carabiner. Trango says that "it's absolutely impossible to open when clipped to a normal carabiner". This is the case with many carabiners, but some ultra-light carabiners, such as wiregates, do allow the blade to open while clipped. Make sure that you check the diameter of your biner in relation to the knife's keeper loop carefully before climbing with your Piranha. My setup makes it impossible for the blade to accidentally open while clipped, but to keep the blade from moving even a millimeter, I wrap mine with a super-thin strip of tape.

If you get caught out in the elements, a knife can mean the difference between life and death (read Touching The Void or Between a Rock and a Hard Place). Weighing in at a mere 7/10ths of an ounce, the Piranha is my silent partner. When you're in a pinch in the mountains, reach for the Piranha Alpine Knife. I don't climb without it.

For more information, please visit Trango.com

Luke Terstriep
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
800-836-4008
Totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Hobnail Kit

I started running in order to stay fit for climbing and skiing. It’s a great way to get the lungs working and maintain or improve my endurance when I only have a short time for a workout. It didn’t take long before I was hooked and now I find myself running in order to stay fit for… well, longer runs.

Throughout the winter and into the spring some of my favorite trails can be a hazard due to packed snow and ice. Too many times I’ve found myself gripped on a north facing aspect or a steep, treed decent.


When I discovered the La Sportiva Hobnail Kit I had to give it a try. While I screwed the first hobnail into my sole, I wasn’t convinced. Then I started running. The added quarter-inch stud was great on the start of the muddy trail. As I made the bend to the first stretch of snow, I started to believe. Then came the dreaded down hill. This time it was a full horror show. Smooth ice, like a Zamboni had just finished multiple passes. I was prepared for a desperate shuffle and feared the wrath of gravity. The Hobnails made easy work of the difficult conditions and inspired me to take a longer loop with another steep gully. There and then I declared that Hobnails were the Shiz-nit.

For my set up, typically I don’t plug too many of the studs into my shoes. I go with three up front and two in the back. This seems to give me enough traction without over doing it. The tool that comes with the kit makes it easy to “plug in and pull out” the studs and I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how little it affects the sole of the shoe.

If you’re looking to extend your trail running season and explore some areas that tend to get snowy and iced-over, check out the Hobnails from La Sportiva.
Avoid looking like Bambi on ice and gain a lot of traction without a large investment.

Hobnail Kit: $45
La Sportiva: Hobnail Kit
To read a Hobnail Kit review by our very own Jilly Salva, click here

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604

Backcountry Access Carbon 260 Avalanche Probe Pole

OK, the BCA Profile 240 was recently reviewed here, but when I come across a great piece of gear, I want to sing its praises. So, please bear with another avalanche probe review.

Without exaggeration, the BCA Carbon 260 is the best probe pole I have owned in the 20+ years I have played and worked in the backcountry. Like the Profile 240, the Carbon 260 utilizes the super user-friendly “quickie” tensioning system. At this point these probes go their separate ways. As the name implies, the Carbon 260 is made of spun carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is noticeably lighter than aluminum and, more importantly, considerably stiffer. The advantage of a stiffer probe becomes apparent when probing for a victim in a deeper burial. In deep, dense avalanche debris, most aluminum probes will “deflect”; literally be forced to bend by the hard snow. This tends not to be the case with Carbon 260. I tested this by burying a small pack five feet in a snowdrift of week old plowed snow. Of the 5 probes that I tested, the Carbon 260 was the only one to consistently hit the target. Yes, there are other probes capable of this kind of accuracy, but they are specialized, heavy models often used by SAR Teams during organized rescue or recovery efforts.

There are other carbon fiber probe poles on the market, but what sets the Carbon 260 apart is that the silk screened depth markers are protected by a clear, protective coating. I am confident that after years of use these centimeter marks will continue to be easy to read. This is a big plus whether you are trying to determine burial depth or using your probe in a profile pit. Most other probes I have owned begin to lose these markings after a couple of years.

The $80 price tag may cause some sticker shock. However, in my opinion, it is easy to justify paying a little more for the best. This is a top shelf product for any serious backcountry enthusiast or snow safety professional.

Ed Crothers
Guide and Climbing Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
2829 Mapleton Avenue, Boulder, CO 80301
800-836-4008
www.totalclimbing.com