Marmot Cauldron Jacket

The Cauldron is one of the greatest jackets I've ever owned in regards to quality workmanship and all-around diversity. With its very reasonable price tag, even in this dark economic climate, you can probably find enough change in the pay phones around Boulder to get one at Neptune’s Mountaineering shop.

The Cauldron is great for skiing, cragging and alpine climbing, but still looks nice enough to wear out on a hot date to the Mountain Sun on a Friday night. For its weight and volume, the Cauldron is surprisingly warm and I've spent many comfortable 15-55 degree days wearing it. Weighing in at a miniscule 1.1 lbs, it’s almost invisible in a pack: stuffed, it can fit into most beer pitchers...(not that you'd want to do that; it's just a point of reference).

There jacket has just the right number of pockets, which are all just the right size and just in the right places. The two external side pockets have girth-hitched pull extensions that make access easier when wearing gloves. (The lack of which is one of my pet peeves. In fact, the only thing I’d like to see in future versions of the Cauldron is an addition of those same extensions on the other pockets). The elastic hem draw cord increases core warmth and tightening it up keeps the jacket clear of harness gear loops when climbing, allowing for easy access to gear for those desperate clips and placements.

The Dri-Clime lined collar is snug enough to retain warmth, but still loose enough to allow for unrestricted neck movement, and the Angel-Wing design really does keep the jacket from riding up during extended periods of over-the-head movement.

I conducted my own SEQCT (Severe Elements Quality Control Test) on the Cauldron jacket, the results confirmed by no less than 3 independent agents. I gave the jacket to my 3 year-old to play with when I felt I could part with it on an especially warm day. When I got home that night, the jacket was unscathed, with its zippers all in perfect condition, its loft retained, and the elastic as good as new. It had categorically rebuffed all the damage such a test normally inflicts. These results are remarkable, and speak volumes about Marmot’s lofty attention to quality. (pardon the pun). Marmot truly seems to be built by those who do what we do, so they know what we need, and they have delivered with the Cauldron jacket. Start gathering your pennies, and head over to your local mountaineering store and pick one up...even in this aforementioned dark economic climate.

You can check out more details of the Cauldron here.

Clint Locks
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Boulder Rock Club
clocks@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

La Sportiva Katana

"The Baby Blue Enabler"

Traditional climbing is seductive. Sometimes I try to end the affair, but am oftentimes won over by the allure and addictive experience that is climbing. Some days I question my myriad of reasons for staying in this relationship. Most adventures leave me with bloodstained hands from failed attempts at cracks, neck cramps from arduous hours of belaying and a fatigued body. These seemingly painful aches are simple reminders of my mortality. A mere mortal, I crave experiences that enable me to be a part of something infinitely greater than myself. Many would agree that climbing is one of those experiences. Many would also agree that those existential experiences are made possible by certain man-made items. My personal favorite, the artificial thing with whom I feel most intimately connected, are my Katanas.

She is baby blue, made by La Sportiva and has a narrow fit. Some says she is simply a climbing shoe. I disagree. During a recent trip to Moab, I decided to climb Castleton Tower. With the necessary help of my partner, my katana’s and my determined desire to dance on sandstone rocks, we climbed the North Chimney. I diligently followed my partner, removing each cam and nut, judiciously placing my feet on sandstone chips. By the end of the third pitch, I fully understood why most people have a love-hate relationship with off-widths. There is something enticing about being suffocated between two rocks. My back against one wall and both my feet anchored onto the other wall, I slowly crept to the finish of my first off-width. Yes, my body hated me. My legs were shaking with excitement and fear, knowing that at any moment either one of my feet could lose their steady grasp on the slippery sandstone. At that moment, I had little choice other than to trust. A trusting relationship had already been established with my partner, but somehow this relationship with my feet seemed less reliable. I would do my best and put my faith in this process.

My faith persevered and we summited. I reached the top, my shoes stained with sandstone, my hands covered in chalk, every muscle fiber throbbing and a smile on my face. This is why I climb. Few other activities evoke the sort of emotional vitality found in traditional climbing. Inevitably I find myself wondering how an old petzel harness and a pair of sweaty climbing shoes can save me from the depths of a mountain tower. More importantly, I wonder how I so willingly entrust my life to these seemingly generic items. After all, they are just pieces of climbing gear. The better part of me knows the truth. My Katana shoes, my harness, even my rusty belay device given to me by an old boyfriend, enable me to feed my addiction. They have earned my trust. They are reliable. And they enable me to freely experience the authentic thing we call life. I call it climbing.

Erin Nickel
Boulder Rock Club
enickel@totalclimbing.com
800-636-4008

Arcteryx S240 Harness

The Specs:
The S240 is a streamlined, ultralight sport-climbing specific harness from Arcteryx. This is the lightest, simplest harness from Arcteryx's line of WARP technology harnesses. WARP technology is a revolutionary method developed by Arcteryx that takes a normal, sturdy piece of 3/4 inch webbing and fans out the webbing to distribute loads over a larger surface area. This allows for the harness to have very little padding, while at the same time being considerably more comfortable. The features of the S240 are streamlined for minimal weight and maximum performance. This model has two large gear loops and super breathable mesh leg loops with elastic fitting. It has a speed buckle and wear indicator webbing on the beefy tie in points; when the webbing turns orange, its time for a new S240.

The Ride:
The S240 is the Porsche of climbing harnesses. I have climbed in many of the leading competitors harnesses and my experience with the S240 blows the competition away. Most ultralight, sport climbing and redpoint specific harnesses sacrifice a lot of comfort for weight and maneuverability. Not here. The S240 provides all-day climbing comfort for those extra long hang dog sessions on your project (or your partners extra long hang dog sessions on their projects) all the while tipping the scale at a measly 248 grams. Although the harness only boasts 2 gear loops, rest assured that these things can be packed with rack. I have put 18 quickdraws on mine, no problem. The waist and especially the mesh leg loops breathe well if you find yourself runout and sweating. The speed buckle is safe and has you strapped up and ready to send long before your partner has stepped into their leg loops. One of the greatest things about the WARP harnesses is that they pack down to nothing. Arcteryx is known for their attention to detail and it shows on the S240. With impeccable seems and slick material, this thing looks really good. I have been using the hell out of mine for nearly 6 months and it barely shows signs of wear.

Overall:
If you are looking for a feather-weight, aggressive sport climbing or single pitch trad harness, the S240 cannot be beat. With the S240 and Arcteryx WARP design you can have the best of both worlds (comfort and performance) with this thing. It is everything you would expect from the world's best harness manufacturer and worth every penny.

J-Star (Jonathan Siegrist)
Route Setter
Boulder Rock Club
www.jstarinorbit.com

Marmot Ion Windshirt

I have been a fan of the Marmot DriClime Jacket for years. Mid-weight insulation built into a windshell makes for a versatile, lightweight piece of technical outerwear. However, during the warmer months of the year or while engaged in high aerobic activities, the DriClime is a bit too much of a good thing.

So, enter the Ion Windshirt. Essentially, the Ion is the DriClime without the insulation and with the bonus feature of a hood. One of my requirements for any piece of gear is that it be multi-functional. This jacket fits the bill. When not on my back, it easily fits in a pant pocket on multi-pitch rock climbs, is always in a jersey pocket while out for a long road or mountain bike ride, and is around my waist while out trail running. The Ion has also made its way into my winter kit as a vapor barrier layer while out backcountry skiing and ice climbing.

As I have found with many Marmot products, there is excellent attention to detail. The thread count on all seams is high. The hood works very well over a climbing helmet and under a bike helmet and can be rolled up and secured with a simple snap when I want it out of the way. Unlike other windshirts I have owned that cost twice as much as the Ion, the zipper is bombproof. Sure, this adds a few grams to the weight of the jacket, but when things get real in the mountains, a blown zipper on a wind jacket reduce it to a worthless piece on nylon; I’ll take a few extra grams!

Whether out working or playing, there are a few items that live in the top of my pack at all times. With a superb weight-to warmth ratio, the Ion has joined the list. It is hard for me to come up with reasons for not having the Ion close at hand. Well, off-widths at Vedauwoo...but isn’t that what K-Mart sweats were invented for?

Ed Crothers
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008
www.totalclimbing.com

For more information on this and other great outdoor gear, please visit Marmot.com