Black Diamond Chaos Harness

There was a stretch of time when I had stopped using Black Diamond harnesses. While other companies were developing new designs and technologies, BD seemed to be falling behind the curve when it came to innovation in the realm of climbing harnesses. BD won me back to their side when they incorporated the “bullhorn”-shaped waist belt. However there was one notable exception – the original Chaos. I just could not get a good fit and found it to be uncomfortable, hot, and heavy. When the opportunity presented itself to try the new Chaos '09, based on past experience, I almost said no thanks. That would have been a big mistake on my part.

BD has developed a new design, Kinetic Core Construction, which sets new standards in function and fit. The 2009 version of the Chaos far surpasses earlier versions of this model and is among the most comfortable harnesses I have ever worn. While working a rescue course recently, I spent a lot of “hang time’ in this harness. My weight was distributed evenly between the waist belt and leg loops and the lower back support was incredible. The large gear loops made racking and gear management a pleasure. After a day of sport climbing, I got halfway home before I realized I still had my harness on – a sure sign of comfort in my mind.

There are a couple of things that could use improvement. I did not find the drop seat feature on the rear leg risers to be user friendly and I have some questions about the stiff gear loops getting in the way in off-widths.

Despite these minor points, the Chaos is a great harness. Whether used for work or play, this all-around harness is worth checking out. I look forward to seeing BD incorporate the Kinetic Core Construction into their entire line of harnesses.

To learn more about the Chaos harness and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Ed Crothers

Colorado Mountain School

AMGA Certified Rock Instructor

AIARE Level 1 Instructor

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Mica Jacket

This spring I was in need of a new waterproof shell…bad! I’ve worn out my Precip after years of abuse in the mountains, at the crags, and in the bottom of my pack. When I jumped on Marmot’s website and saw the Mica Jacket it seemed to fit the bill. My criteria was simple: lightweight (7 ozs) and waterproof (MemBrain Strata). That’s all I was really looking for in terms of base features. Marmot has always been spot-on with fit made for the field. They pay close attention to details like hoods that actually work with a helmet and room in the arms and body that allow you to move when skiing and climbing.

When the jacket arrived I was impressed by it’s packability. It stuffs down into one of the two hand pockets (about the size of an orange). Perfect for clipping to the harness or shoving into my pack.

Then came the true test. Front Range wind and snow on an early morning ski tour in the Indian Peaks. It was one of those days in the Colorado high country, when winter returns with a vengeance. I’d dressed for spring, for a fast tempo skin and ski, not for these temps, not for nukin’ wind and recycled snow ripping through the air. The jacket lived up to my past experiences with Marmot’s gear. It worked - and worked well. It broke the wind and kept me dry. It allowed me to stay warm in the wind and not overheat on the skin. The cuffs stayed down over my gloves and the hood provided the needed room and protection.

I’m looking forward to the spring and summer season ahead in Rocky Mountain National Park. Having the Mica in my pack will be a relief when the wind howls and the rain decides to wash me off a climb. If you’re in need, check out Marmot’s Mica Jacket.

Cost: $130 – You can’t beat that for a fully waterproof shell!

For more info on Marmot’s '09 line, check out: Marmot.com

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604
TotalClimbing.com

La Sportiva Wildcat

The new Wildcat running shoe from La Sportiva quickly became my favorite running shoe this winter. The shoe fits my foot perfectly and is the most cushioned shoe from La Sportiva. I thought there was a chance this would make the shoe unstable, but I could not have been more mistaken. The shoe is stable, has good traction, and breaths well.

I have worn the shoe running on dirt, mud, snow, and ice. The shoe excelled in all but the ice arena and luckily I have a pair of Fireblades with the hobnails in them for that. The spring season will surely bring more mud and heat, and I believe this is where the breathable mesh will really excel. If you have cold feet, this may not be the winter running shoe for you. I wore the shoes in Alaska in February with heavy socks and they performed with aplomb.

If you are looking for a well cushioned, comfortable, trail running shoe, look no further. I have about 25 days of running on them and I look forward to the next 25. Happy trails.

Mike Alkaitis
Total Climbing
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
303-447-2804 ext 107
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com