Friday, May 29, 2009

Sterling Ion 9.5mm Rope

Carpenters have their hammer, Surgeons their scalpel, and Mountain Guides have their rope. I can’t think of too many other pieces of gear that I use on such a regular basis. Sometimes I’m in mountain boots (read my review of La Sportiva's Trango Extreme Evo Light), sometimes in rock shoes, some days I place ice screws for protection, some days nuts and cams, but almost always I have a rope with me.

Recently I had the opportunity to test the new Sterling Ion 9.5 mm rope. I put over 40 days of hard use on it. Over 50 pitches of ice, 25 pitches of rock and even several gym session mega-whippers. I would be lying if I said the rope looked brand new, but compared to some other ropes with similar use, the Ion is still standing and ready for many more deployments into harms way.

Pros: Very durable, easy to coil and uncoil, feeds for lead belays very smoothly, overall weight for such a durable rope is quite good. This will be one of my go-to ropes when I only need one for cragging or shorter multipitch days.

Cons: No factory middle mark (the middle mark is a great tool), when belaying two ropes at once from a top belay (auto blocking device being used) the Ion did not feed/pull as well as some other ropes in its class. For guiding multiple clients this makes my work a little harder and puts more strain on my elbows.

If you are looking for a durable rope in this size range I would put the Ion high on your list, as this rope will be at your side even after heavy use.

For more info, visit Sterling.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Marmot Eiger 48L

This is my first experience using a Marmot pack and I have to say, I’m impressed. Working as a professional mountain guide, I spend a lot of time in the field and subsequently lots of time wearing a pack. Therefore, I look for something that fits well and has simple, yet useful features without too many bells and whistles. I have found this in the Marmot Eiger 48L pack.

I first used this on a guided ascent of the Dragontail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. The pack easily accommodated all the necessary equipment for a full day of Alpine abuse. Features include a crampon pouch, dual ice axe slots, and hydration system. The fully adjustable shoulder straps and padded hip belt made the approach comfortable.

When it was time to climb, the pack compressed to a more climbing friendly size. The removable top lid was able to fit inside and the side compression straps cinched for a more streamlined fit.
As we topped out in near white-out conditions, the mesh pocket on the hip belt was perfect for GPS and map storage to easily navigate on the descent.

There is no doubt that this will be my go-to pack for all guiding objectives this season. From classic alpine routes in RMNP to rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, this pack can do it all.

For more info, visit Marmot.com

Eric Whewell
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008