La Sportiva has solved this problem for me with the Ganda. It is half approach shoe half climbing shoe. While guiding in Red Rocks this fall I used the Ganda for climbs up to mid 5.10 and felt very comfortable in them. They are very comfortable for the approach and then climb like a dream. The best part is that I only had to bring one pair of shoes, making the climbing pack much lighter. The Ganda is hand made in Italy. Its craftsmenship is second to none and they should last me at least 5 years! The shoe is designed to take many resoles and athough the cost is high, its value is considerably greater than other approach shoes when you consider it’s longevity. The Ganda is not quite as comfortable as the Exum but not carrying rock shoes is a reasonable trade-off. The shoe is a bit warm due to the beefy construction. So far these are the only drawbacks I have found.
For climbs that are moderate in nature and when I only want to bring one pair of shoes the Ganda will be my first choice.
WEIGHT: 14.74 oz • 418 g LAST: Approach Tech CONSTRUCTION: Slip Lasted (forefoot)/ Board Lasted (rear) UPPER: Leather/ Vibram® rubber rands/ Synthetic leather LINING: Mesh (heel only) MIDSOLE: PU Lite SOLE: Vibram® Dot Rubber
For more information on the Ganda check out La Sportiva's website: Sportiva.com
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School