Black Diamond's Speed Pack 30L

Black Diamond’s Speed Pack 30L was the perfect pack for my AMGA Alpine Guide Course, which included one-day “fast and light” ascents of alpine rock/snow in the Rocky Mountain National Park this Spring. The Speed Pack’s integrated hydration system was key and enabled me to stay hydrated while constantly on the move. Although I’ll admit that I did not quite “on-sight” how to attach ice tools on the pack initially, the Speed Pack’s IceLink tool attachments system is quite clever. Once you “red-point” the system for attaching the tools, they come on and off easily and eliminate slippage of tools from the pack. If 2 lb 11 oz (Size S) is not light enough, you can also strip the Speed Pack’s padded hip belt, aluminum frame & frame sheet and top lid to make it an ultra-light summit pack.

The pack’s SwingArm suspension shoulder straps took a little bit to get used to – in a good way. The Speed Pack’s back support system moves with you, whether swinging a tool, scrambling, or technical rock climbing, the pack suspension adjusts to your movements. I’ve never had such a reactive and un-cumbersome pack! Although many packs claim to have an active suspension system, the Speed Pack actually does something and you notice it right away! If you do not like the suspension system on your first date with the pack, I suggest giving anther try – you will grow to like it!

I have been using the pack since June. Now in July, we still have tons of snow left in the RMNP and the Speed Pack has been with me on every alpine ascent! Thanks Black Diamond for a comfortable and light alpine pack!

Norie Kizaki
AMGA Certified
CMS Guide

Check out their gear and packs at Black Diamond's web site:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/

Black Diamond Cosmo Headlamp

Before I review this headlamp, I have to put some things in perspective. I’ve been guiding for CMS for 20 years now. Whether I like it or not, that makes me an old guy. And like many of my old guy compatriots I’m not particularly tech-savvy and I don’t really like change. For example, I still have a land based phone and I have staunchly avoided Facebook. While I’m not a total Luddite, some of my techy friends have been known to call me ‘retro-tech’ or ‘slowie’.

While all this may seem quite beside the point, stick with me - it will eventually make sense.

I’ve been guiding for 25+ years now and so I’ve spent a good portion of my life doing middle of the night approaches. Thankfully, I’ve done far fewer middle of the night descents, though I’ve done my share of those as well. I’ve always preferred headlamps that have 2 straps (one around your head and one over the top) because I have a prima donna skull and I get headaches easily when my hats, helmets, or headlamps are too tight for an extended period of time. The strap over the top allows me to keep the strap around my poor, sensitive head loose and comfortable. Two straps have always worked for me. Why would I want to change a system that’s been working perfectly well for years now?!

Now that I’ve given you more than sufficient good reason to be sympathetic to my cause, you can imagine my inward groaning when the CMS office handed me the BD Cosmo Headlamp to test…a headlamp with only ONE strap. I haven’t even taken it out of the box and it has 2 strikes against it: it’s different and it’s going to give me a headache! I’m already thinking, ‘I can’t help being an old guide these days, but now it’s going to be BD’s fault that I’m a grumpy old guide!’

Imagine my surprise when I started to discover some of the user friendly features on the Cosmo like the power switch that looks tiny but that’s actually easy to use even with gloves on. And the single strap is a piece of cake to adjust while it’s on my wimpy head and while I’m walking and while I’m wearing gloves.

Even though all the lighting elements are LED, the 2 settings (a low power diffuse setting and a high power focused beam) are perfect for diverse needs like digging in your pack or night time navigation. And one of the coolest features is the dimmer function for both settings. Honestly, I thought the rheostat function was just a gimmick, but I actually use it often to customize the amount of light I need and save battery power at the same time. And never mind the fact that it’s pretty hard to come up with a good reason not to carry it as an emergency light in my pack every day I go in the field because it’s so light (54g without batteries).

And unfortunately, as much as I’d like to blame BD for making me the grumpy old guide…I can’t! The Cosmo’s light weight means I can keep the single strap quite loose and it stays in place very nicely.

So, it turns out I didn’t need the sympathy I worked so hard to generate earlier. I hate to say it, but I didn’t need to be afraid of new technology or of change…at least not with headlamps. However, I still reserve the right to be an old guy with everything else!

So I guess the bottom line is: while you won’t be talking to me on the latest smart phone or tweeting with me on Twitter, you will see me pre-dawn and post-dusk happily using the BD Cosmo. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the happy old guide!

Check out more on BD's website: Cosmo

Bob Chase

CMS SENIOR Guide

bchase@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Women's Rockstar Pant

The Marmot Rockstar pants make you feel like a rock star. Perfect for windy or chilly days, the stretchy material allows for easy, unrestricted movement. I wore the Rockstar Pants during my five-day AMGA Rock Instructor Exam, including one day during some fast moving rainstorms. Despite getting rained on, my legs were never wet and the Rockstar Pants kept me warm. These pants would be outstanding for alpine climbing excursions, spring skiing, or anytime you want to move fast and light in the mountains.  Learn more at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

nkizaki@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Ganda

As a mountain guide, what goes on my feet is one of the most important things I consider. Often while rock climbing, figuring out what combination of shoes to take on a long climb is the crux of the packing. When the climb requires a walk off in technical terrain the decision gets even harder. Do I take a very light approach shoe and rock shoes for an easy climb that requires lots of walking or do I carry a more substantial approach shoe where comfort comes first? The problem with the second option is carrying the heavy shoes in the pack can make the climb not as fun.

La Sportiva has solved this problem for me with the Ganda. It is half approach shoe half climbing shoe. While guiding in Red Rocks this fall I used the Ganda for climbs up to mid 5.10 and felt very comfortable in them. They are very comfortable for the approach and then climb like a dream. The best part is that I only had to bring one pair of shoes, making the climbing pack much lighter. The Ganda is hand made in Italy. Its craftsmenship is second to none and they should last me at least 5 years! The shoe is designed to take many resoles and athough the cost is high, its value is considerably greater than other approach shoes when you consider it’s longevity. The Ganda is not quite as comfortable as the Exum but not carrying rock shoes is a reasonable trade-off. The shoe is a bit warm due to the beefy construction. So far these are the only drawbacks I have found.

For climbs that are moderate in nature and when I only want to bring one pair of shoes the Ganda will be my first choice.

Ganda specs:

WEIGHT: 14.74 oz • 418 g LAST: Approach Tech CONSTRUCTION: Slip Lasted (forefoot)/ Board Lasted (rear) UPPER: Leather/ Vibram® rubber rands/ Synthetic leather LINING: Mesh (heel only) MIDSOLE: PU Lite SOLE: Vibram® Dot Rubber

For more information on the Ganda check out La Sportiva's website: Sportiva.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

Marmot Women’s Oracle Jacket

I tested Marmot’s new Oracle shell during a windy and cold day of crevasse rescue practice at 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Oracle blocks out wind and precipitation well, and keeps you dry and warm. The Oracle is ideally paired with the Marmot Lightweight Zip Neck. If you are looking for an ultra-lightweight, all season wind, rain, and snow season shell, the Marmot Oracle is tough to beat.

Check out the technical specs for this jacket at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Zeal Optics - Flyers

If you’re anything like me, you tend to be pretty hard on your gear. Sometimes it’s just too difficult to buy anything nice because deep down you know it’s only a matter of time before you lose it, crush it, or drop it. Sunglasses are the prime example. Yes, more than once I’ve been that idiot snooping around like a creep, frantically asking total strangers (and amused friends) if anyone’s seen my sunglasses…while they’re either perched on my head or still on my face.

But in many ways Zeal Optics has provided solutions to these problems be they legit or of my own doing. I spend about 300 days a year in the high-alitude, not-a-cloud-in-sight-my-skin-is-igniting mountains of Colorado. Many of those days are spent thrashing myself and my gear. If a piece of gear can’t hold up, I callously leave it by the wayside; life’s too short to spend even a little of it futzing with stuff that doesn’t work.

For the most part, though, I put on my Zeal sunglasses and never think about them again. I prefer bigger frames that offer more coverage and protection from the intense, high-altitude sun, frames like the Flyer and the Emit. They offer great protection and do what they’re supposed to do: function perfectly while staying out of my way. Miraculously, I still have the same pair of original Flyers after countless forays into the mountains. I’ve dropped them, sat on them, stuffed them into the pack, ripped them off my head in some glorious ski wreck, stretched them, tweaked them, and more. Not only have they endured but they haven’t loosened up or chipped or had any of the other common faults found in a lesser brand. But should I ever break my glasses, I’m comforted by the fact that Zeal offers a lifetime warranty as well as an excellent Crash Replacement Program.

I’ve mostly reduced those embarrassing “has anyone seen my sunglasses?” moments thanks to Zeal’s ZB-13 Polarized lenses. These things are amazing! It’s like having x-ray vision when looking up at a cliff; you can literally see what’s wet by the shimmering effect on the rock. Suffice it to say this has come in handy many times in my line of work. So when these sunglasses come off, I really notice the difference right away. This has helped me countless times to keep from leaving them behind. I take them off, realize my natural vision sucks, and promptly put them back on. Problem solved. Seriously, though, my experience with Zeal Optics’ sunglasses has been nothing short of excellent. Other brands offer similar product but they’re usually not so stylish, durable, or affordable. Now if only these things would just break so that I could have the excuse to buy the latest color! Looks like I’ll be waiting a long time for that to happen…

Check out the Zeal line at ZealOptics.com.

Andrew Councell

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800.836.4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Aegis Jacket

I’ve had a chance to wear Marmot’s Aegis Jacket now in spring and early summer conditions in both Colorado and South Dakota’s Needles and one thing is clear; I love it!

It is unbelievable that Marmot was able to load this jacket with so many useful features and keep the weight down to a bantam 14oz!

Some things I can’t live without in a waterproof/breathable shell. This includes a hood that is fully adjustable for helmet or bare head and cinches down to stay put in the brutal winds common in the Rockies. Also on my list of must-haves are ample pit zips (hey, I sweat a little ok?), a draw cord hem and a two way main zipper (great when wearing a climbing harness). I also like a little stiffened bill on the hood, kind of like a built in baseball cap. The Aegis has all this and more.

Some of the other nice touches include a soft driclime lining on the cuffs and collar, cuffs that are big enough to go on over your gloves and yet easily cinch tight (though they could go a bit tighter on my skinny wrists when I’m gloveless; which is really only an issue at high speeds on my motorcycle), a zippered sleeve pocket for the lip balm and what have you , and big zippered hand warmer pockets to carry said gloves in. The Aegis also lets you stow the hood away in the collar when you don’t feel a need for the full protection; like when you have your motorcycle helmet on, or if you’re just using it as a wind shell.

Finally I like the way it moves. With Marmot’s “Angel Wing” movement, you can easily stretch for the next handhold without the whole jacket needing to move, and although it is a hardshell jacket, it moves almost like a softshell; not at all stiff and crinkly.

With all this going for it, the Aegis comes in red to boot! (and other colors)

And at 14oz. you can afford to carry full foul weather protection with you at all times. whether rock climbing, alpine climbing or hitting the canyon twisties.

I know mine will be coming with me on many more adventures throughout the year.
 
Mark Hammond
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Zeal Optics Flyer Sunglasses

Marmot Ascent 40 Pack

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

I was fortunate enough to recently acquire the Trail Wind Hoody from Marmot.  Upon first inspection of this garment it seemed great.  It had all the features I would look for in a lightweight wind layer: Hood? Yes. Drawstring closure at the hem? Yes.  Small pocket? Yes.  Super lightweight? Yes.  The garment talked the talk but could it walk the walk?  I brought it to Canada for two weeks of ski touring to find out.

With the constant movement of ski touring it can be difficult to find an equilibrium with layers to not be too cold while not melting on the uphill.  So with this equation, choosing appropriate layers is difficult.  The Trail Wind Hoody outperformed my expectations.  During a 2 day ski traverse we encountered rain, high winds, blasting sun, and total whiteouts.  The Trail Wind Hoody left me cool enough for the 3000 foot climbs and blocked the wind on the 4000 foot descent from the top of Whistler.  When the weather got nasty, I pulled the drawstring hem and cinched the hood to block out the elements.  The chest pocket conveniently held my sunblock and lip balm for easy access.  It fits into its own pocket for easy storage and at a mere 4oz. this jacket helped keep my multi-day pack under 30lbs!  

This jacket will surely be a go to item for all my guiding objectives this year.  Whether I’m on the Diamond or cragging in Boulder Canyon, the Trail Wind Hoody will be with me.

Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Boulder X

I have been mostly using my La Sportiva Gandas while guiding in the Front Range and Red Rocks and could not really imagine a shoe that would equal it. When the Boulder X came out I did not see a fit for my everyday use. Once I got it on my feet my pre conceived ideas were quickly changed. This is the most comfortable approach shoe I have ever worn that also climbs like a champ. The Boulder X comes from a long history in the La Sportiva line up and this shoe improves and has built on its ancestry. The padding in this shoe is what puts it above its competitors. The Vibram Idro Grip rubber is some of the stickiest I have ever used in an approach shoe. The tread is quite deep while not compromising traction and will greatly prolong its life. The shoe is built to last and this may be its only drawback as its a bit on the heavy side and slightly warm. In my opinion this is a reasonable trade off, as I want my shoes to last.

So far, I have used the shoe for a total of 19 days of guiding in Red Rocks and Smith Rocks where I even used it to climb the uber classic Johny Vegas to Solar Slab; a linkup of 10 pitches. Messing around on top rope I was even able to send the classic 12a Heinous Cling with the Boulder X although I did have to pull a bit harder. The Boulder X will be my workhorse for work and play. Come join me for a day of climbing in Eldo. The season is here!!

WEIGHT: 16.97 oz/ 481 g LAST: Boulder CONSTRUCTION: Board Lasted UPPER: Leather LINING: Mesh (back half and tongue only) INSOLE: 2mm Polyproylene/2mm La SpEVA MIDSOLE: Micropore EVA SOLE: Vibram® Idro-Grip V-Smear™ Impact Brake System™

Dale Remsberg
CMS Head Guide
IFMGA Certified Guide
dremsberg@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Basic Work Glove

Dueter 45+ Guide Pack

The Dueter Guide 45+ pack has all the bells and whistles… okay, no bells, but it does have a whistle - conveniently built into one of the buckles. I love to see added functionality with no cost to weight; it’s the hallmark of quality mountain gear. My favorite feature: The Alpine Back System provides a cooling channel of air along my back for the length of the pack, reducing the sweat-factor on those long chops up to Lumpy Ridge. Dueter’s VariFlex hip belt is as cushy as they come and adjusts way out for layered-up winter outings. This pack’s main compartment has a removable separator which allows me to separate gear within the load when necessary. It’s hydration system compatible, and carries ice tools and crampons without worry. An extendable lid is essential for me, and Deuter was smart enough to put one on. I can't go without the easy access allowed by carrying a rope saddlebag-style under the lid.

One feature that I would welcome adding to this pack is a small pocket on the side that I could use to stuff a CLIF Bar wrapper or a beanie into mid-hike. If I happen to be on the trail without pockets on my pants, a small elastic sleeve on the side saves me from having to stop and remove my pack to stow those little things along the way.

The Deuter 45+ is a great all-around pack - and tough. I’ve been rockin’ mine for more than 5 months. It’s been through the ringer, and has shown no weakness.

Luke Terstriep
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
800-836-4008

Marmot Hydrogen Sleeping Bag

I was looking for an ultra-light weight 3 season sleeping bag. The primary uses would be for ski hut trips in the Colorado backcountry and summer camping. Over the years, I’ve managed to get fairly efficient at packing and I rarely carry more than a 55L pack, even for several nights out. So the sleeping bag needed to be highly compressible as well. My final requirement was a full length zipper. I’ve tried bags with only a half zipper and they just didn’t work for me – I like to be able to stick my feet outside the bag when it’s warmer and the half-zips were something of a pain to get in and out of.


Enter the Marmot Hydrogen. Utilizing 850+ goose down, it weighs in at 1 lb 8 oz, is rated at 30 °F, has a full length zipper, and stuffs down to about 6”x12”. I’ve taken it on several hut trips and been thoroughly pleased. As you may know, the huts are heated with wood burning stoves, so the indoor temperature can be all over the board. Thanks to the small size of the hut and my zealous partners, the temps at bedtime were close to 60 °F and I appreciated the full zipper. But by morning things had cooled down significantly and I was burrowed comfortably into the bag with the zipper up. I haven’t pushed the comfort zone on the temperature rating (yet), but with the full mummy design and drawstring hood, this will be my go-to bag for all but the worst of conditions.


Here are the specs from Marmot.
Colors: Hemlock (4484)
Sizes: Regular: 6'0"/LFT
Long: 6'6"/LFT
Weight: 1 lbs 8 oz / 702 g
Fill Weight: 11 oz / 311 g
Size on Hip: 147 cm
Size on Foot: 101 cm
Temperature Rating: 30F / -1.1C EN 13537 Tested
Comfort: 39.2F / 4C
Lower Limit 29.8F / -1.2C
Extreme 1F / -17.2C
Main Material: 100% Nylon Ripstop DWR 1.2 oz/yd
Lining Material: 100% Polyester Taffeta DWR 1.0 oz/yd
Insulation Material: 850+ Goose Down

For more info check out: www.marmot.com

See you in the backcountry.

Matt Lipscomb
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 & 2 Instructor
mlipscomb@totalclimbing.com

Want to improve your backcountry skiing skills and gain confidence in decision making in the mountains so that you can enjoy one of the many backcountry huts or yurts in Colorado? Join CMS for a L1 Avalanche Course or a day of guided backcountry skiing this season.

Marmot Mica Jacket

Steve Johnson
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
sjohnson@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

La Sportiva Exum Pro

I’ve been guiding for about 25 years and am always on the look out for a better approach shoe. This class of shoe has its work cut out for it since it needs to hike comfortably AND climb well – at least on easy 5th class terrain. The La Sportiva Exum Pro’s I got at the beginning of the summer balance that equation incredibly well.

I’ll admit that I’ve loved my La Sportiva Exum Ridge’s that I’ve been using for a couple of summers now and was a bit dubious about the idea that La Sportiva was tweaking them and giving them a new name: the Exum Pro. Like most of us, I don’t like change…especially when it comes to climbing apparel that works. Admittedly, me and my gray hair come from the school of ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!’ However, since La Sportiva had discontinued the Exum Ridge, and duct tape or shoe goo was no longer an option for my old stand-bys, I reluctantly (and with some unbecoming grumbling) ordered ‘the new guys’.

Surprisingly, I’ve discovered that La Sportiva can teach an old dog new tricks – old approach shoes AND old guides! With the Exum Pro they’ve kept the ‘good’ and added some ‘better’ to it. They’ve added a softer feel to the Pro’s hiking comfort (almost like a running shoe!). The Exum Ridge was a bit harder with each step – something I’d learned to live with to get the climbing performance I wanted. Another added bonus of the Pro’s is their fit: a wee bit more relaxed. They are a hair wider in the toe box and a touch longer in the length which makes them even more comfortable on those steep descents. And climbing performance? The Pro climbs just as well as the Exum Ridge ever did.

Bottom line: If you’re a fan of the Exum Ridge then you’ll love the Exum Pro. If you haven’t tried either then this is one approach shoe that comes highly recommended from an old dog still learning new tricks.

To learn more about the Exum Pro and other great Sportiva climbing shoes please visit Sportiva NA

Bob Chase
CMS Senior Guide
bchase@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Black Diamond RPM Pack

Naturally, I’m pretty lazy. I don’t like doing things twice and I don’t like doing more work than I have to. That’s why Black Diamond’s RPM Pack is a real joy to have on many of my RMNP excursions. People often comment on the size of my packs, like: “Dude, that pack is tiny…how do you fit it all in there?” Well, where there’s a will, especially a lazy one, there is a way.

You see, I just don’t like carrying a lot of stuff. Carrying a lot of stuff feels like work and when I’m in the mountains I’d rather be having fun. The RPM is a light, durable, low-profile pack that can go anywhere I can. Folk always buy these do-it-all packs with all these pricey bells and whistles that are often the byproduct of poor design. Not so with the RPM. Its beauty is in its simplicity. The RPM is designed like a stuff-sack, so you can just cram it all in and then zip it shut; no annoying “lightweight” buckles to fumble with or too-long, face-smacking straps to endure on windy days. It does what a pack should do: stay out of the way, allowing you to move like it isn’t even there.

The RPM has become my primary guiding pack for many trips, especially for rock and alpine rock venues…sort of a 3-season, crossover pack. I can easily fit a 1st aid kit; 2.5 liters of water via hydration system; a rack of draws, lockers, cordelettes, etc; a rack of cams, nuts, and/or screws; my climbing shoes; a harness, a couple light layers or one puffy jacket; my lunch and my helmet always sits on top. For those light-and-fast alpine blitzes, two external ice axe loops adjust to carry whatever my route demands. The mesh side pouches come in handy for carrying my Patagonia Houdini jacket and Buff on one side and my sunscreen, lip balm, and gloves on the other. A design bonus is in the compression system. Once you unpack, rack up, and start your climb, you don’t have to worry about having a deflated, awkward-looking, and bulky wrinkled-raisin on your back. Simply pull the draw-cord and the RPM compresses down to fit whatever is left inside. I love climbing with this pack!

As if one could improve upon perfection, the waist belt ain’t one of those bulky, padded, “removable” jobs your grandma would use as a backyard lawn cushion. Instead, it’s an oddly effective strap that doesn’t cover up the gear loops on your harness as you climb (one of my chief complaints with other “climbing” packs). There are a couple of adequately-sized zipper pockets on top for carrying maps, compass, lighter and as always, a car-key clip so you don’t show back up at the trailhead looking like a douf in front of your angry friends.

One thing I wish the RPM had is a rope-carrying system, just a simple nylon strap like on Black Diamond’s Instinct pack would do. I lay awake at night trying to figure out how to rig a solution for this myself…no, not really. I just carry a rope mountaineer-style or stuff it inside for those sport-climbing days. Once again, Black Diamond has created a near-perfect lazy-man pack for those of us who want a pack that can do most of it without forcing us to do more than we must.

To learn more about the RPM pack and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Andrew Councell
Guide/Lodging Manager
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517
800.836.4008
TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Eiger 48L

This is my first experience using a Marmot pack and I have to say, I’m impressed. Working as a professional mountain guide, I spend a lot of time in the field and subsequently lots of time wearing a pack. Therefore, I look for something that fits well and has simple, yet useful features without too many bells and whistles. I have found this in the Marmot Eiger 48L pack.

I first used this on a guided ascent of the Dragontail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. The pack easily accommodated all the necessary equipment for a full day of Alpine abuse. Features include a crampon pouch, dual ice axe slots, and hydration system. The fully adjustable shoulder straps and padded hip belt made the approach comfortable.

When it was time to climb, the pack compressed to a more climbing friendly size. The removable top lid was able to fit inside and the side compression straps cinched for a more streamlined fit.
As we topped out in near white-out conditions, the mesh pocket on the hip belt was perfect for GPS and map storage to easily navigate on the descent.

There is no doubt that this will be my go-to pack for all guiding objectives this season. From classic alpine routes in RMNP to rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, this pack can do it all.

For more info, visit Marmot.com

Eric Whewell
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Mica Jacket

This spring I was in need of a new waterproof shell…bad! I’ve worn out my Precip after years of abuse in the mountains, at the crags, and in the bottom of my pack. When I jumped on Marmot’s website and saw the Mica Jacket it seemed to fit the bill. My criteria was simple: lightweight (7 ozs) and waterproof (MemBrain Strata). That’s all I was really looking for in terms of base features. Marmot has always been spot-on with fit made for the field. They pay close attention to details like hoods that actually work with a helmet and room in the arms and body that allow you to move when skiing and climbing.

When the jacket arrived I was impressed by it’s packability. It stuffs down into one of the two hand pockets (about the size of an orange). Perfect for clipping to the harness or shoving into my pack.

Then came the true test. Front Range wind and snow on an early morning ski tour in the Indian Peaks. It was one of those days in the Colorado high country, when winter returns with a vengeance. I’d dressed for spring, for a fast tempo skin and ski, not for these temps, not for nukin’ wind and recycled snow ripping through the air. The jacket lived up to my past experiences with Marmot’s gear. It worked - and worked well. It broke the wind and kept me dry. It allowed me to stay warm in the wind and not overheat on the skin. The cuffs stayed down over my gloves and the hood provided the needed room and protection.

I’m looking forward to the spring and summer season ahead in Rocky Mountain National Park. Having the Mica in my pack will be a relief when the wind howls and the rain decides to wash me off a climb. If you’re in need, check out Marmot’s Mica Jacket.

Cost: $130 – You can’t beat that for a fully waterproof shell!

For more info on Marmot’s '09 line, check out: Marmot.com

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604
TotalClimbing.com