Black Diamond's Speed Pack 30L

Black Diamond’s Speed Pack 30L was the perfect pack for my AMGA Alpine Guide Course, which included one-day “fast and light” ascents of alpine rock/snow in the Rocky Mountain National Park this Spring. The Speed Pack’s integrated hydration system was key and enabled me to stay hydrated while constantly on the move. Although I’ll admit that I did not quite “on-sight” how to attach ice tools on the pack initially, the Speed Pack’s IceLink tool attachments system is quite clever. Once you “red-point” the system for attaching the tools, they come on and off easily and eliminate slippage of tools from the pack. If 2 lb 11 oz (Size S) is not light enough, you can also strip the Speed Pack’s padded hip belt, aluminum frame & frame sheet and top lid to make it an ultra-light summit pack.

The pack’s SwingArm suspension shoulder straps took a little bit to get used to – in a good way. The Speed Pack’s back support system moves with you, whether swinging a tool, scrambling, or technical rock climbing, the pack suspension adjusts to your movements. I’ve never had such a reactive and un-cumbersome pack! Although many packs claim to have an active suspension system, the Speed Pack actually does something and you notice it right away! If you do not like the suspension system on your first date with the pack, I suggest giving anther try – you will grow to like it!

I have been using the pack since June. Now in July, we still have tons of snow left in the RMNP and the Speed Pack has been with me on every alpine ascent! Thanks Black Diamond for a comfortable and light alpine pack!

Norie Kizaki
AMGA Certified
CMS Guide

Check out their gear and packs at Black Diamond's web site:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/

Marmot Ether Jacket

Revo Abyss Sunglasses

I have been wearing the Revo Abyss sunglasses throughout the last weeks’ fantastically diverse spring season -- rock climbing and trail running in the Front Range, and alpine ice climbing and backcountry skiing in the high mountains.  We Coloradans are truly lucky to get the best of both worlds right now!  When CMS asked me to test the Revo Abyss sunglasses, I was a little skeptical.  I thought, “They won’t fit on my tiny Asian nose!”  Impressively, though, the Revo Abyss have been my “go to” sunglasses everyday during the last 3 weeks, across all these varied activities.  And, maybe more importantly, I may have finally discovered active and functional sunglasses that aren’t just for boys – and that fit my Asian nose!***  Hooray!

The Revo Abyss sunglasses have curved lenses that nicely wrap around your eyes and face, shielding reflection and sun from the sides. The Abyss work exceptionally well on snow and rock as their Polarcast Polarization Technology eliminates glare.  While climbing steep snow and alpine ice, I noticed that the Abyss had great downward vision and allowed me to focus on my footing as I climbed.

Most importantly, the view of the world through Abyss has been stunning.  I have seen beautiful snow filled mountains and ridges in Rocky Mountain National Park, red and yellow color rock in Eldorado Canyon, and beautiful snowflakes that land on my jacket.  I can see them all sharply and clearly!

Bottom line: The Revo Abyss are great shades for getting out and getting after it in the mountains.  And did I mention they fit an Asian nose?  Thanks Revo!!!

***Please note that you do not need an Asian nose to wear these glasses.  I am sure it fits you fine.

For more information about Revo's sunglasses please check out their website: http://revo.com

Norie Kizaki
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
nkizaki@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Women's Reyna Soft-shell Jacket

The Marmot Women's Reyna Jacket is perfect for variable conditions - snowy weather, windy conditions, or even on a sunny day.  I tested this jacket while backcountry ski guiding for two months in Hokkaido, the snowy northern island of Japan. Upon returning to sunny Colorado, the Reyna Jacket was still perfect for spring tours and climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Looking back, I have worn the Reyna Jacket on every guiding day of the past several months -- on windy and bitter cold days down to -20c and splitter blue sky days into up to 60F. In full-on conditions, it was great as a wind stopper underneath the Marmot Dena Jacket (http://marmot.com/products/wms_dena_jacket).  The Reyna Jacket's excellent hood helps trap heat also protects you from the wind!  The combination of Marmot Reyna Jacket and Dena Jacket were the key this winter.

Surprisingly breathable, you can wear the Reyna as an outer layer on warmer days or while skinning up a mountain. Thanks to under-arm zippers, I never over-heated while skiing or climbing, even when other had to strip a layer, prompting my clients to ask, "How is it that you never need to take layers on and off?"  Magic, I guess -- or maybe just the Reyna Jacket.

If you catch me guiding in Rocky Mountain National Park this Spring and Summer, chances are I will STILL be wearing the Reyna Jacket.  Makes me wonder if I am going to be wearing this jacket for an entire year?  

Ladies, I guess the question is not whether you should get yourself a Marmot Reyna Jacket (you should), the question is just whether to get two!

Thanks Marmot for such a functional jacket!

Norie Kizaki

CMS Guide

nkizaki@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

For more information on the Reyna Jacket check out Marmot's website: www.marmot.com

Marmot Dena Jacket

The Marmot Dena Jacket is a women specific synthetic insulated jacket. Not only is it warm, light and durable, it also uses recycled or discarded materials that otherwise go to landfills. So, in essence, it is double light (i.e., on weight and on the environment)!

I tested this jacket backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Vail Pass, and Red Mountain Pass in the San Juans, as well as ice climbing in Ouray. It is a perfect layer on a cold or snowy day in the mountains. The hood works great over your ski hat to give some extra warmth. It’s also a good piece to throw in your backpack as an extra layer since it only weights about 12oz.  In addition, I must mention that my Dena Jacket is a feminine light-blue color.  I received numerous compliments from several women while walking and skiing around the Vail Resort!

Adding the Marmot Dena over my Marmot Oracle jacket worked great.  It easily fit over my ice climbing harness and kept me extra warm on a cold bitter day. The jacket features something called “Angel-Wing Movement”.  This fancy feature allows full range of arm motion which really helps when you are swinging your ice tools.

This has become my favorite go-to jacket on a cold day. So if you tend to get cold in the mountains like I do, try out this jacket.  And if you want to stay warm and still look good, check out the light blue color, you will not be disappointed!   

Have fun and stay warm out there,

Norie Kazaki

Colorado Mountain School Guide

AMGA Certified Rock Instructor

BD Punisher Glove

When I chose a glove for mountain guiding I need something that performs well. This winter I wanted to try out the Black Diamond Punisher Glove. I have been out this winter several times with the BD Punisher. I have a few guidelines that the glove has to meet.

One of my more important concerns is that the glove has dexterity. I like placing protection on lead that flows smoothly. I do not like to fumble around with big puffy gloves while leading ice climbs. The BD punisher has a sleek low profile design that allows for easy handling of my ice equipment. A quick test for me to tell if the glove has precision is too be able to tie my ice boots without taking my gloves off and the Punisher passed.

A second concern of mine is the ability of the glove to stay somewhat dry while being out all day in adverse conditions. My body runs hot so I have a style of hiking in to the climb with a BD mid-weight super breathable liner so I do not sweat into the glove that I will be ice climbing in. When I was climbing in negative degree weather the punisher stayed warm and breathed pretty well I found while ice climbing and belaying.

I have been guiding for a decade now and I have seen the sport develop a bit over the years. I like the fact that gear is getting more modern. There has been some thought on Black Diamonds part, I have experienced the functionality of the Punisher. Like the glove keeper loops on the finger so I am able to store my gloves upside down on my gear loops so no falling snow is able to get inside of the glove. I also discovered that there is softer material on the thumb that I use as a nose wipe in really cold weather. It’s the little things like that in the back country, which gives me a bit more comfort.

Whether I am chopping steps with my piolet or bashing icecicles with my Cobra’s I will be wearing my BD Punishers on my next guiding adventure.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AMGA SPI Program Director

Black Diamond Cosmo Headlamp

Before I review this headlamp, I have to put some things in perspective. I’ve been guiding for CMS for 20 years now. Whether I like it or not, that makes me an old guy. And like many of my old guy compatriots I’m not particularly tech-savvy and I don’t really like change. For example, I still have a land based phone and I have staunchly avoided Facebook. While I’m not a total Luddite, some of my techy friends have been known to call me ‘retro-tech’ or ‘slowie’.

While all this may seem quite beside the point, stick with me - it will eventually make sense.

I’ve been guiding for 25+ years now and so I’ve spent a good portion of my life doing middle of the night approaches. Thankfully, I’ve done far fewer middle of the night descents, though I’ve done my share of those as well. I’ve always preferred headlamps that have 2 straps (one around your head and one over the top) because I have a prima donna skull and I get headaches easily when my hats, helmets, or headlamps are too tight for an extended period of time. The strap over the top allows me to keep the strap around my poor, sensitive head loose and comfortable. Two straps have always worked for me. Why would I want to change a system that’s been working perfectly well for years now?!

Now that I’ve given you more than sufficient good reason to be sympathetic to my cause, you can imagine my inward groaning when the CMS office handed me the BD Cosmo Headlamp to test…a headlamp with only ONE strap. I haven’t even taken it out of the box and it has 2 strikes against it: it’s different and it’s going to give me a headache! I’m already thinking, ‘I can’t help being an old guide these days, but now it’s going to be BD’s fault that I’m a grumpy old guide!’

Imagine my surprise when I started to discover some of the user friendly features on the Cosmo like the power switch that looks tiny but that’s actually easy to use even with gloves on. And the single strap is a piece of cake to adjust while it’s on my wimpy head and while I’m walking and while I’m wearing gloves.

Even though all the lighting elements are LED, the 2 settings (a low power diffuse setting and a high power focused beam) are perfect for diverse needs like digging in your pack or night time navigation. And one of the coolest features is the dimmer function for both settings. Honestly, I thought the rheostat function was just a gimmick, but I actually use it often to customize the amount of light I need and save battery power at the same time. And never mind the fact that it’s pretty hard to come up with a good reason not to carry it as an emergency light in my pack every day I go in the field because it’s so light (54g without batteries).

And unfortunately, as much as I’d like to blame BD for making me the grumpy old guide…I can’t! The Cosmo’s light weight means I can keep the single strap quite loose and it stays in place very nicely.

So, it turns out I didn’t need the sympathy I worked so hard to generate earlier. I hate to say it, but I didn’t need to be afraid of new technology or of change…at least not with headlamps. However, I still reserve the right to be an old guy with everything else!

So I guess the bottom line is: while you won’t be talking to me on the latest smart phone or tweeting with me on Twitter, you will see me pre-dawn and post-dusk happily using the BD Cosmo. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the happy old guide!

Check out more on BD's website: Cosmo

Bob Chase

CMS SENIOR Guide

bchase@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot ROM Jacket

Sterling Ion II Rope

The Sterling Ion II 9.4mm is my climbing rope of choice when guiding high-end multi pitch alpine rock climbs. The rope has a long life, durable performance and lighter weight construction than its predecessor.

Sterling Ion II 9.4mm shaved off 3 grams per meter thus making the Ion II only 9.4mm in diameter and 57 grams per meter. The Ion II is lighter than most 9.4mm ropes and this makes guiding ice and rock a bit more comfortable for climbing long alpine ascents. With the Ion II dry treatment technology, the rope handles quite well and is a pleasure to pull through my plaquette while belaying. This new design also gives the rope a UIAA fall rating of 5, an impact force rating of 8.4n, and a dynamic elongation of 30.80%.

Keeping all this in mind, the Sterling Ion II is a must-have for me while guiding in the mountains. Whether it is a tandem rappel or a 6:1 raising system, this rope performs very well.  To learn more, check out SterlingRope.com.

Joey Thompson
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Rock Guide
AMGA SPI Program Director
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008
TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Women's Rockstar Pant

The Marmot Rockstar pants make you feel like a rock star. Perfect for windy or chilly days, the stretchy material allows for easy, unrestricted movement. I wore the Rockstar Pants during my five-day AMGA Rock Instructor Exam, including one day during some fast moving rainstorms. Despite getting rained on, my legs were never wet and the Rockstar Pants kept me warm. These pants would be outstanding for alpine climbing excursions, spring skiing, or anytime you want to move fast and light in the mountains.  Learn more at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

nkizaki@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Ganda

As a mountain guide, what goes on my feet is one of the most important things I consider. Often while rock climbing, figuring out what combination of shoes to take on a long climb is the crux of the packing. When the climb requires a walk off in technical terrain the decision gets even harder. Do I take a very light approach shoe and rock shoes for an easy climb that requires lots of walking or do I carry a more substantial approach shoe where comfort comes first? The problem with the second option is carrying the heavy shoes in the pack can make the climb not as fun.

La Sportiva has solved this problem for me with the Ganda. It is half approach shoe half climbing shoe. While guiding in Red Rocks this fall I used the Ganda for climbs up to mid 5.10 and felt very comfortable in them. They are very comfortable for the approach and then climb like a dream. The best part is that I only had to bring one pair of shoes, making the climbing pack much lighter. The Ganda is hand made in Italy. Its craftsmenship is second to none and they should last me at least 5 years! The shoe is designed to take many resoles and athough the cost is high, its value is considerably greater than other approach shoes when you consider it’s longevity. The Ganda is not quite as comfortable as the Exum but not carrying rock shoes is a reasonable trade-off. The shoe is a bit warm due to the beefy construction. So far these are the only drawbacks I have found.

For climbs that are moderate in nature and when I only want to bring one pair of shoes the Ganda will be my first choice.

Ganda specs:

WEIGHT: 14.74 oz • 418 g LAST: Approach Tech CONSTRUCTION: Slip Lasted (forefoot)/ Board Lasted (rear) UPPER: Leather/ Vibram® rubber rands/ Synthetic leather LINING: Mesh (heel only) MIDSOLE: PU Lite SOLE: Vibram® Dot Rubber

For more information on the Ganda check out La Sportiva's website: Sportiva.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Women’s Oracle Jacket

I tested Marmot’s new Oracle shell during a windy and cold day of crevasse rescue practice at 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Oracle blocks out wind and precipitation well, and keeps you dry and warm. The Oracle is ideally paired with the Marmot Lightweight Zip Neck. If you are looking for an ultra-lightweight, all season wind, rain, and snow season shell, the Marmot Oracle is tough to beat.

Check out the technical specs for this jacket at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Zeal Optics - Flyers

If you’re anything like me, you tend to be pretty hard on your gear. Sometimes it’s just too difficult to buy anything nice because deep down you know it’s only a matter of time before you lose it, crush it, or drop it. Sunglasses are the prime example. Yes, more than once I’ve been that idiot snooping around like a creep, frantically asking total strangers (and amused friends) if anyone’s seen my sunglasses…while they’re either perched on my head or still on my face.

But in many ways Zeal Optics has provided solutions to these problems be they legit or of my own doing. I spend about 300 days a year in the high-alitude, not-a-cloud-in-sight-my-skin-is-igniting mountains of Colorado. Many of those days are spent thrashing myself and my gear. If a piece of gear can’t hold up, I callously leave it by the wayside; life’s too short to spend even a little of it futzing with stuff that doesn’t work.

For the most part, though, I put on my Zeal sunglasses and never think about them again. I prefer bigger frames that offer more coverage and protection from the intense, high-altitude sun, frames like the Flyer and the Emit. They offer great protection and do what they’re supposed to do: function perfectly while staying out of my way. Miraculously, I still have the same pair of original Flyers after countless forays into the mountains. I’ve dropped them, sat on them, stuffed them into the pack, ripped them off my head in some glorious ski wreck, stretched them, tweaked them, and more. Not only have they endured but they haven’t loosened up or chipped or had any of the other common faults found in a lesser brand. But should I ever break my glasses, I’m comforted by the fact that Zeal offers a lifetime warranty as well as an excellent Crash Replacement Program.

I’ve mostly reduced those embarrassing “has anyone seen my sunglasses?” moments thanks to Zeal’s ZB-13 Polarized lenses. These things are amazing! It’s like having x-ray vision when looking up at a cliff; you can literally see what’s wet by the shimmering effect on the rock. Suffice it to say this has come in handy many times in my line of work. So when these sunglasses come off, I really notice the difference right away. This has helped me countless times to keep from leaving them behind. I take them off, realize my natural vision sucks, and promptly put them back on. Problem solved. Seriously, though, my experience with Zeal Optics’ sunglasses has been nothing short of excellent. Other brands offer similar product but they’re usually not so stylish, durable, or affordable. Now if only these things would just break so that I could have the excuse to buy the latest color! Looks like I’ll be waiting a long time for that to happen…

Check out the Zeal line at ZealOptics.com.

Andrew Councell

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800.836.4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Aegis Jacket

I’ve had a chance to wear Marmot’s Aegis Jacket now in spring and early summer conditions in both Colorado and South Dakota’s Needles and one thing is clear; I love it!

It is unbelievable that Marmot was able to load this jacket with so many useful features and keep the weight down to a bantam 14oz!

Some things I can’t live without in a waterproof/breathable shell. This includes a hood that is fully adjustable for helmet or bare head and cinches down to stay put in the brutal winds common in the Rockies. Also on my list of must-haves are ample pit zips (hey, I sweat a little ok?), a draw cord hem and a two way main zipper (great when wearing a climbing harness). I also like a little stiffened bill on the hood, kind of like a built in baseball cap. The Aegis has all this and more.

Some of the other nice touches include a soft driclime lining on the cuffs and collar, cuffs that are big enough to go on over your gloves and yet easily cinch tight (though they could go a bit tighter on my skinny wrists when I’m gloveless; which is really only an issue at high speeds on my motorcycle), a zippered sleeve pocket for the lip balm and what have you , and big zippered hand warmer pockets to carry said gloves in. The Aegis also lets you stow the hood away in the collar when you don’t feel a need for the full protection; like when you have your motorcycle helmet on, or if you’re just using it as a wind shell.

Finally I like the way it moves. With Marmot’s “Angel Wing” movement, you can easily stretch for the next handhold without the whole jacket needing to move, and although it is a hardshell jacket, it moves almost like a softshell; not at all stiff and crinkly.

With all this going for it, the Aegis comes in red to boot! (and other colors)

And at 14oz. you can afford to carry full foul weather protection with you at all times. whether rock climbing, alpine climbing or hitting the canyon twisties.

I know mine will be coming with me on many more adventures throughout the year.
 
Mark Hammond
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope Review

Zeal Optics Flyer Sunglasses

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

I was fortunate enough to recently acquire the Trail Wind Hoody from Marmot.  Upon first inspection of this garment it seemed great.  It had all the features I would look for in a lightweight wind layer: Hood? Yes. Drawstring closure at the hem? Yes.  Small pocket? Yes.  Super lightweight? Yes.  The garment talked the talk but could it walk the walk?  I brought it to Canada for two weeks of ski touring to find out.

With the constant movement of ski touring it can be difficult to find an equilibrium with layers to not be too cold while not melting on the uphill.  So with this equation, choosing appropriate layers is difficult.  The Trail Wind Hoody outperformed my expectations.  During a 2 day ski traverse we encountered rain, high winds, blasting sun, and total whiteouts.  The Trail Wind Hoody left me cool enough for the 3000 foot climbs and blocked the wind on the 4000 foot descent from the top of Whistler.  When the weather got nasty, I pulled the drawstring hem and cinched the hood to block out the elements.  The chest pocket conveniently held my sunblock and lip balm for easy access.  It fits into its own pocket for easy storage and at a mere 4oz. this jacket helped keep my multi-day pack under 30lbs!  

This jacket will surely be a go to item for all my guiding objectives this year.  Whether I’m on the Diamond or cragging in Boulder Canyon, the Trail Wind Hoody will be with me.

Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Basic Work Glove

Dueter 45+ Guide Pack

The Dueter Guide 45+ pack has all the bells and whistles… okay, no bells, but it does have a whistle - conveniently built into one of the buckles. I love to see added functionality with no cost to weight; it’s the hallmark of quality mountain gear. My favorite feature: The Alpine Back System provides a cooling channel of air along my back for the length of the pack, reducing the sweat-factor on those long chops up to Lumpy Ridge. Dueter’s VariFlex hip belt is as cushy as they come and adjusts way out for layered-up winter outings. This pack’s main compartment has a removable separator which allows me to separate gear within the load when necessary. It’s hydration system compatible, and carries ice tools and crampons without worry. An extendable lid is essential for me, and Deuter was smart enough to put one on. I can't go without the easy access allowed by carrying a rope saddlebag-style under the lid.

One feature that I would welcome adding to this pack is a small pocket on the side that I could use to stuff a CLIF Bar wrapper or a beanie into mid-hike. If I happen to be on the trail without pockets on my pants, a small elastic sleeve on the side saves me from having to stop and remove my pack to stow those little things along the way.

The Deuter 45+ is a great all-around pack - and tough. I’ve been rockin’ mine for more than 5 months. It’s been through the ringer, and has shown no weakness.

Luke Terstriep
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
800-836-4008

Marmot Scree Pant