Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

Marmot Women’s Oracle Jacket

I tested Marmot’s new Oracle shell during a windy and cold day of crevasse rescue practice at 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Oracle blocks out wind and precipitation well, and keeps you dry and warm. The Oracle is ideally paired with the Marmot Lightweight Zip Neck. If you are looking for an ultra-lightweight, all season wind, rain, and snow season shell, the Marmot Oracle is tough to beat.

Check out the technical specs for this jacket at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Zeal Optics - Flyers

If you’re anything like me, you tend to be pretty hard on your gear. Sometimes it’s just too difficult to buy anything nice because deep down you know it’s only a matter of time before you lose it, crush it, or drop it. Sunglasses are the prime example. Yes, more than once I’ve been that idiot snooping around like a creep, frantically asking total strangers (and amused friends) if anyone’s seen my sunglasses…while they’re either perched on my head or still on my face.

But in many ways Zeal Optics has provided solutions to these problems be they legit or of my own doing. I spend about 300 days a year in the high-alitude, not-a-cloud-in-sight-my-skin-is-igniting mountains of Colorado. Many of those days are spent thrashing myself and my gear. If a piece of gear can’t hold up, I callously leave it by the wayside; life’s too short to spend even a little of it futzing with stuff that doesn’t work.

For the most part, though, I put on my Zeal sunglasses and never think about them again. I prefer bigger frames that offer more coverage and protection from the intense, high-altitude sun, frames like the Flyer and the Emit. They offer great protection and do what they’re supposed to do: function perfectly while staying out of my way. Miraculously, I still have the same pair of original Flyers after countless forays into the mountains. I’ve dropped them, sat on them, stuffed them into the pack, ripped them off my head in some glorious ski wreck, stretched them, tweaked them, and more. Not only have they endured but they haven’t loosened up or chipped or had any of the other common faults found in a lesser brand. But should I ever break my glasses, I’m comforted by the fact that Zeal offers a lifetime warranty as well as an excellent Crash Replacement Program.

I’ve mostly reduced those embarrassing “has anyone seen my sunglasses?” moments thanks to Zeal’s ZB-13 Polarized lenses. These things are amazing! It’s like having x-ray vision when looking up at a cliff; you can literally see what’s wet by the shimmering effect on the rock. Suffice it to say this has come in handy many times in my line of work. So when these sunglasses come off, I really notice the difference right away. This has helped me countless times to keep from leaving them behind. I take them off, realize my natural vision sucks, and promptly put them back on. Problem solved. Seriously, though, my experience with Zeal Optics’ sunglasses has been nothing short of excellent. Other brands offer similar product but they’re usually not so stylish, durable, or affordable. Now if only these things would just break so that I could have the excuse to buy the latest color! Looks like I’ll be waiting a long time for that to happen…

Check out the Zeal line at ZealOptics.com.

Andrew Councell

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800.836.4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Aegis Jacket

I’ve had a chance to wear Marmot’s Aegis Jacket now in spring and early summer conditions in both Colorado and South Dakota’s Needles and one thing is clear; I love it!

It is unbelievable that Marmot was able to load this jacket with so many useful features and keep the weight down to a bantam 14oz!

Some things I can’t live without in a waterproof/breathable shell. This includes a hood that is fully adjustable for helmet or bare head and cinches down to stay put in the brutal winds common in the Rockies. Also on my list of must-haves are ample pit zips (hey, I sweat a little ok?), a draw cord hem and a two way main zipper (great when wearing a climbing harness). I also like a little stiffened bill on the hood, kind of like a built in baseball cap. The Aegis has all this and more.

Some of the other nice touches include a soft driclime lining on the cuffs and collar, cuffs that are big enough to go on over your gloves and yet easily cinch tight (though they could go a bit tighter on my skinny wrists when I’m gloveless; which is really only an issue at high speeds on my motorcycle), a zippered sleeve pocket for the lip balm and what have you , and big zippered hand warmer pockets to carry said gloves in. The Aegis also lets you stow the hood away in the collar when you don’t feel a need for the full protection; like when you have your motorcycle helmet on, or if you’re just using it as a wind shell.

Finally I like the way it moves. With Marmot’s “Angel Wing” movement, you can easily stretch for the next handhold without the whole jacket needing to move, and although it is a hardshell jacket, it moves almost like a softshell; not at all stiff and crinkly.

With all this going for it, the Aegis comes in red to boot! (and other colors)

And at 14oz. you can afford to carry full foul weather protection with you at all times. whether rock climbing, alpine climbing or hitting the canyon twisties.

I know mine will be coming with me on many more adventures throughout the year.
 
Mark Hammond
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope Review

Zeal Optics Flyer Sunglasses

Marmot Ascent 40 Pack

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

I was fortunate enough to recently acquire the Trail Wind Hoody from Marmot.  Upon first inspection of this garment it seemed great.  It had all the features I would look for in a lightweight wind layer: Hood? Yes. Drawstring closure at the hem? Yes.  Small pocket? Yes.  Super lightweight? Yes.  The garment talked the talk but could it walk the walk?  I brought it to Canada for two weeks of ski touring to find out.

With the constant movement of ski touring it can be difficult to find an equilibrium with layers to not be too cold while not melting on the uphill.  So with this equation, choosing appropriate layers is difficult.  The Trail Wind Hoody outperformed my expectations.  During a 2 day ski traverse we encountered rain, high winds, blasting sun, and total whiteouts.  The Trail Wind Hoody left me cool enough for the 3000 foot climbs and blocked the wind on the 4000 foot descent from the top of Whistler.  When the weather got nasty, I pulled the drawstring hem and cinched the hood to block out the elements.  The chest pocket conveniently held my sunblock and lip balm for easy access.  It fits into its own pocket for easy storage and at a mere 4oz. this jacket helped keep my multi-day pack under 30lbs!  

This jacket will surely be a go to item for all my guiding objectives this year.  Whether I’m on the Diamond or cragging in Boulder Canyon, the Trail Wind Hoody will be with me.

Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Boulder X

I have been mostly using my La Sportiva Gandas while guiding in the Front Range and Red Rocks and could not really imagine a shoe that would equal it. When the Boulder X came out I did not see a fit for my everyday use. Once I got it on my feet my pre conceived ideas were quickly changed. This is the most comfortable approach shoe I have ever worn that also climbs like a champ. The Boulder X comes from a long history in the La Sportiva line up and this shoe improves and has built on its ancestry. The padding in this shoe is what puts it above its competitors. The Vibram Idro Grip rubber is some of the stickiest I have ever used in an approach shoe. The tread is quite deep while not compromising traction and will greatly prolong its life. The shoe is built to last and this may be its only drawback as its a bit on the heavy side and slightly warm. In my opinion this is a reasonable trade off, as I want my shoes to last.

So far, I have used the shoe for a total of 19 days of guiding in Red Rocks and Smith Rocks where I even used it to climb the uber classic Johny Vegas to Solar Slab; a linkup of 10 pitches. Messing around on top rope I was even able to send the classic 12a Heinous Cling with the Boulder X although I did have to pull a bit harder. The Boulder X will be my workhorse for work and play. Come join me for a day of climbing in Eldo. The season is here!!

WEIGHT: 16.97 oz/ 481 g LAST: Boulder CONSTRUCTION: Board Lasted UPPER: Leather LINING: Mesh (back half and tongue only) INSOLE: 2mm Polyproylene/2mm La SpEVA MIDSOLE: Micropore EVA SOLE: Vibram® Idro-Grip V-Smear™ Impact Brake System™

Dale Remsberg
CMS Head Guide
IFMGA Certified Guide
dremsberg@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Basic Work Glove